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28. I.N.D.I.A. 8 Jul 2009 | 02:01 am

The sun sets on India Travel has the habit of changing people; in my experience, it does so in subtle yet potentially deep ways to travellers’ perceptions, tolerances and lifestyles. Conversely, my b...

27. I Fought the Law (and the law won) 30 Jun 2009 | 06:00 am

Fine thanks: the reward for tackling Indian bureaucracy Having visited the Taj I decided to move on from Agra, westwards to the “Pink City” of Jaipur, so-called because it was painted pink to commemo...

26. Taj Very Much 27 Jun 2009 | 06:00 am

A beautifully-adorned outer door of the Taj Mahal I woke up feeling transformed by the antibiotics I’d taken last night, and was well enough to amble down to the nearest pharmacy to pick up a full co...

25. Delhi Belly 25 Jun 2009 | 06:00 am

The India Gate war memorial at the heart of New Delhi I’d been flying across great swathes of India for about £30 a pop, so booking a flight last week for the mere hour-long hop from Leh to Delhi for...

24. Leh-ing Low 20 Jun 2009 | 06:00 am

Leh Palace, which dominates the skyline of the dusty little town Nestled deep in the mountains in a Ladakh valley carved by the Indus River, Leh was a delight – and a perfectly safe place to visit in...

23. Bad Altitude 19 Jun 2009 | 06:00 am

A snowy vista in the Himalayas, Kashmir The last we had seen of our legendary bus driver yesterday evening was him disappearing into a tent with the conductor and waving a large bottle of brandy, so ...

22. The Roof of India 18 Jun 2009 | 06:00 am

A jaw-droppingly gorgeous remote Himalayan valley on the Manali-Leh Highway I’d planned to stay two nights in Keylong to reinforce my body’s acclimatisation to 3200 metres. It was a small and charmin...

21. Middle of Nowhere 15 Jun 2009 | 06:00 am

“D’you think the AA will come out this far?” A puncture near the Rohtang Pass It was with some trepidation that I made my way down to the bus station to grab an onwards bus that would take me up into...

20. How d’you like them apples? 12 Jun 2009 | 06:00 pm

Old Manali: Firs, rushing rivers and mountain peaks The next stop I had earmarked was due east to a hill station situated in the verdant Kullu Valley called Manali. I very nearly missed my evening bu...

19. Want Tibet? 5 Jun 2009 | 06:00 pm

Buddhist prayer wheels at the base of Mcleod Ganj’s temple From Chandigarh I boarded another state-run bus for the long and winding route through the hills up to Dharamsala, the hopping-off point for...

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