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Queso helado? That’s cheese ice cream! Well, I never. 9 May 2013 | 08:00 pm

Wherein does my cheeselove come from? In the U.S. we practically worship amber waves of cheddar and mozzarella mountain majesties, so there’s that patriotic peer pressure. And, although I’ve lived for...

Something about this city doesn’t click 3 May 2013 | 08:00 pm

Who’s to decide when a city has really pulled together, gathering at least a few of its cultural tendrils into a civic identity that can cause visitors to feel connected to something vital and forever...

A plaza for people watching and conspiracy plotting 2 May 2013 | 08:00 pm

You don’t promenade in Arequipa, Peru’s Plaza de Armas. Not exactly. People wander about the main square, drifting from one group to another. They catch up with friends, kvetch about the cost of corn,...

Jarred hearts, dead nuns, and a spring bride: Arequipa’s Santa Catalina Convent 26 Apr 2013 | 03:37 am

I’d been led to believe that a visit to Monasterio de Santa Catalina (Santa Catalina Monastery) in Arequipa, Peru would be a serene, beautiful experience. Sure, sure. Except for the presence of death ...

Peru’s finest petting zoo. No…wait. 23 Mar 2013 | 05:31 am

There’s more to getting lunch at Arequipa, Peru‘s largest market than just showing up and finding the most popular and promising food stall. You really need to be careful which route you take through ...

Recipe for making Peru’s adobo arequipeño at home 19 Mar 2013 | 07:00 pm

Adobo arequipeño, also known as adobo de chanco, is a traditional dish from Arequipa, Peru. Cooked overnight, adobo arequipeño is a popular hangover cure and Sunday brunch dish at Arequipa’s local pic...

Today adobo, tomorrow the world: The best adobo in Arequipa, Peru 15 Mar 2013 | 12:45 am

A town in which the traditional Sunday brunch is a bowl of spicy pork stew is a town I can get with. I just hope that the adobo in Arequipa, Peru is actually good. I don’t want to get with something i...

Jesuits and Catholics have their day 14 Mar 2013 | 12:04 am

There are two things to do on a Sunday in Arequipa, Peru. One is to soothe your hangover with a bowl of adobo arequipeño, a spicy pork stew. The other is to go to church. So I do as the Arequipeños do...

Sh*t just got real…istic in Arequipa, Peru 7 Mar 2013 | 08:00 pm

Nothing like wandering the streets of a new-to-me city and seeing this: This nightmare isn’t some Pan’s Labyrinth be-hoofed creature come to haunt the streets of Arequipa, Peru. It’s Peruvian folklore...

Eating guinea pig: A pet at home, dinner in Peru 28 Feb 2013 | 03:14 am

An old saying begins, “If you love somebody, let them go.” If you’re traveling to Peru and you’ve had a guinea pig as a pet, a more fitting expression may be, “If you’ve loved something, put it in you...

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