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Greengage jam Bakewell tart 23 Aug 2013 | 04:00 pm

Here’s the latest of my contributions to Borough Market’s blog and recipe collection. I fancied consuming a few seasonal greengages – and generally see using them in tarts as a good way of doing that....

#OGR: Fußball at Pizza Pilgrims 20 Aug 2013 | 11:45 pm

So after deliberating over a number of different possibilities, I decided the One Good Reason to go to Pizza Pilgrims’ restaurant is the fact they’ve a Fußball table. This is not a back handed comple...

This Dish – Episode 3 – James Knappett 8 Aug 2013 | 06:01 pm

The tasting menu at Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs involves somewhere between ten and fifteen small dishes, each of which uses just a few ingredients. The head chef, James Knappett, changes that menu dai...

Tomatoes and chervil 7 Aug 2013 | 02:36 am

A Teutonic friend of mine insists there’s basically no point eating tomatoes in the UK because everything we get, home grown or otherwise, is ohne Geschmack. I think that’s a bit harsh. Of course ther...

Finding a balance 2: 32 GQS, Clerkenwell Kitchen & Royal China 2 Aug 2013 | 06:05 pm

For all the chatter about new restaurants, I reckon, after quickly perusing the Hot Dinners site, that fewer than ten of the seventy-odd places listed as having opened this year were and still are of ...

Wish List – August 2013 1 Aug 2013 | 06:22 am

This month, I hope to enjoy some or all of the following: The Smokehouse Koya-Ko Flesh and Buns Peppers and Spice Greengages

Pigeon with pea, mint and feta salad 30 Jul 2013 | 04:49 pm

Here’s the latest post and recipe wot I wrote for Borough Market’s website. I have to say the combination of pigeon with the classic summery salad of pea (times 3), mint and feta is a lovely one. It’s...

This Dish – Episode 2 – Nicholas Balfe 24 Jul 2013 | 07:40 pm

In creating dishes for his weekly changing menu, Nicholas Balfe of Salon restaurant in Brixton is led by the relationships he has with his suppliers, and the seasonal ingredients they make available t...

Cottage cheese and Roscoffs 19 Jul 2013 | 03:18 pm

One man’s “Cow’s curd, Roscoff onions, Nigella seeds and Moscatel” is another man’s “cottage cheese, onion and chives”. Anon, July 2013. Curd, whether ewe’s, goat’s or cow’s, is en vogue at the momen...

Mayfields 16 Jul 2013 | 11:48 pm

‘Good neighbourhood restaurant’ is a phrase that has always irked me. My legal training means that I like (or am obsessed by) well defined terms. And ‘good neighbourhood restaurant’ is not one of thos...

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