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Horses and Khatgal 26 Aug 2013 | 02:03 pm

“When I was 17,” Ganbaa explains, “I was a wrestler. And a group of us went to Russia, wrestling. There were no tall buildings in Ulaanbaatar at the time, and so, when we stayed in this Russian hotel,...

12 Reasons I Love Mongolia 17 Aug 2013 | 09:11 pm

Isolation In the least densely populated country on earth, expect big, empty, silent landscapes, huge skies and a sense of incredible space. Off the beaten track in Mongolia, you can travel for days ...

A Town Named Moron 12 Aug 2013 | 06:21 pm

Mörön sits in a swirl of grubby sand, backed by jagged mountains, giving onto plains grazed to a fine yellow stubble. It’s an epic setting for a Wild West town. Sadly, Siwa this ain’t. Or, as Zac pu...

Adventures in Mongolian Public Transport 11 Aug 2013 | 01:34 pm

We leave a sunny Ulaanbaatar on the night train to Erdenet, because we’re on our way to Khatgal to see the reindeer people and it seems like a good idea to break the journey up a little. The train is...

10 Reasons to Visit Thailand – from Trailfinders 8 Aug 2013 | 04:06 am

Looking for somewhere to escape the English winter? The good folk over at Trailfinders asked me to come up with ten good reasons to visit Thailand – it wasn’t hard. BEACHES The Beach was filmed in ...

The Mongolian State Circus 30 Jul 2013 | 11:34 pm

The Mongolian State Circus in Ulaanbaatar stands empty, most of the time, its golden-tiled big top a monument to the glory days when a Communist state could truly fund a circus. But at special times ...

Smoking in Mongolia. More Difficult Than You’d Think. 27 Jul 2013 | 11:38 pm

After over a quarter of a century as a smoker, and a spectacularly misspent youth, I like to think that I have a nose for nicotine. And other things, for that matter. Alcohol during Ramadan? Look fo...

Welcome to Mongolia 26 Jul 2013 | 08:02 pm

The language barrier at the border is sudden and absolute. Chinese trains, buses and finally a taxi have brought us to the border, but we’ll be crossing in a jeep. And the jeep is most definitely Mon...

In Xanadu… 18 Jul 2013 | 04:50 pm

There are some places on this earth that have a magic in their name. Samarkand. Timbuktu. Xanadu… And, as Xanadu is pretty much on the way from Harbin to Mongolia, it would have been remiss of us not...

Chinese Hospitality in Changchun 6 Jul 2013 | 11:55 am

“Do you have a hotel?” our now-ex-landlord asks, as her husband, Xiao Feng, chauffeurs us 45 minutes across town to the brand spanking new Harbin West station. Their three-year-old son is on her lap,...

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